The Haitian Border

Last week I went on a road trip to the Haitian border with some friends. It all started out as just a trip to Santiago. I was going to meet up with my friend Erica, and one of her friends who was visiting from the states. I also had some business to get done in Santiago, mainly email my 3-month community diagnostic report and a summary of the budget for the aqueduct to my boss. Anyways, after some major begging (actually, I think they just asked once) we were off on our way to Dajabón, one of the major border crossing in the DR. Another person along for the ride was John, someone else who wasn't planning on going, but got dragged in anyways. The main reason I decided to go on this trip was not only to be in the company of friends, but also, Erica's friend had rented a car, and this would probably be one of the only opportunities in my two years here to travel in luxury to the Haitian border, and not have to be cramped in a guagua with a million other people.

So after not even having been in Santiago for 24 hours, off we went after lunch to our destination. All throughout the DR, the type of landscapes and environment change dramatically, and this journey was no exception. We started out in the bustling city of Santiago, looking at lush beautiful mountains, but after the few hours journey, it was a flat, dry, almost desert-like landscape, with cacti and everything. After a couple hours, we ended up at Pam's site, a business volunteer working with bees and honey. She just moved into her own pad, and we were actually her first visitors since she had been at her site. After we dropped off our things, we went on a little walk, where she showed us around Dajabón. For being so remote, the city actually has pretty much everything you would ever need. We stopped and got some ice cream for a snack, and later for dinner some burgers. We also walked up to the border of Haiti, only a couple blocks from her house, and it is literally a stone's throw away. Look at my pics, I have one of John throwing a stone into Haiti. After that we just hung out at her house for the rest of the night.

The next morning we woke up bright and early so that we could make it to the Haitian market. Before hitting the market we went up to the border once again, this time at the official border crossing with customs and everything. Unfortunately, as PCVs we are not permitted to travel into Haiti, so we just stood on the bridge crossing, without actually crossing over to the other side. Once I'm done being a PCV, I am definitely making a trip to Haiti. At the crossing there is an influx of all the Haitians, carrying their wares on their heads to sell at the market. The market is truly indescribable through both words or even pictures. Neither can do it justice, nor describe the smells and odors that fill the air. I didn't buy anything, although there were a few really cool t-shirts that I almost bought. Some of the purchases of my friends included pillows, and pots and pans for the stove. I loved it just for the experience.

That afternoon we left Dajabón with our sights headed back to my site. On the way back there were a few pit stops. The first one being the restaurant La Madonna. Before I had left for the DR, one of my best friends had mailed me (through snail mail) an article clipped out of Gourmet Magazine which had a one-page blurb on this restaurant here in the DR. I wouldn't really even so much call it a restaurant, just a little stop on the highway. I never actually thought that I would make it there, so I'm pretty sure I just threw out the article right after I read it. Fortunately for me, I remembered the name of the place, and that it was on the road between Navarrete and Monte Cristi. So we spotted it and decided that we would eat lunch. The specialty there is goat, since according to the article, oregano bushes grow natively there, and the goats eat the oregano, meaning that they're kind of pre-seasoned. You could choose between two types of goat, horneado (oven-baked) or guisado (stewed). Two of us ordered the horneado and the other two ordered guisado. Both were excellent (not sure if they were Gourmet Magazine worthy), but were good nonetheless, and if I were to go again I would probably choose the guisado. I think we may have been charged gringo prices, as it seemed a little bit more expensive than what I was expecting, but it was still only a little more than US$6 per person for quite a feast, so I shouldn't complain.

The second pit stop was to John's site to drop him off, and so that the two Ericas could see his site. After a little tour around John's community, off we went back to my site. My host mom is always extremely happy to accept visitors, and was elated when I showed up with two unexpected guests. Erica bought some macaroni and cheese at the grocery store and I gave it to my Doña to cook for dinner, as she makes the best mac and cheese ever. I then introduced the Ericas to the dating game show called 12 Corazones. It's my favorite show here and my Doña and I watch it every night. It's on Telemundo back in the states as well, and I recommend that you catch an episode or two.

The next morning we went to 27 Charcos. I have described them in the past so I will not go into much detail. This was my third time and I don't think they will ever get old. It was the both of the Ericas first times, and they loved them just as much as I did. I especially liked them this time because we got in for free, since the PCV who is stationed there made a deal with one of the guides that we would go with a guide up to number 7, and then explore the remaining 20 on our own. I was very proud of Erica that she jumped off the tallest one, and I did it again, even though the last time I did, I swore that I wouldn't do it again.

For lunch we went to a BBQ chicken place in a bigger town near me. I had heard other volunteer sing praises of it, and another volunteer who was with us literally eats lunch there every day since he is really close to it. We each got 1/4 chicken, some sort of rice with beans, salad and a drink. All that for US$2.50 per person. The chicken is incredible and I will definitely be going back there in the future. After that we went back to my site to freshen up. I took the Ericas on a tour of my community and showed them the house that I should be moving to in about a month or so. It was also a chance to parade around the "novia." For dinner, instead of my Doña cooking us food, which she was more than willing to do, we decided we would go out for dinner as well. We went and picked up Todd, the volunteer who is stationed at the Charcos, made a pit stop at his old host family's house and then went for pizza, which I was a little wary of, but it ended up being excellent. This was pretty cheap as well. We got the largest pizza on the menu (with Hawaiian toppings...my favorite) along with two big beers all for less than US$3 per person. During dinner we discussed the idea of going out, so Todd called up one of his Dominican friends for suggestions. He suggested a club that just opened in Puerto Plata in the all-inclusive complex of Playa Dorada. Since we had a car, we figured why not. So we went and picked up his two Dominican friends, one of which would be our designated driver. The rest of the night need not be described, except that we danced the night away, listening to American booty music all night, which was very refreshing as opposed to the Merengue and Bachata of which I have become accustomed.

The next morning, the two Ericas were not looking forward to their long drive back to her site in Samaná, but off they went. I was sad to see them leave as it was awesome hanging out with them for four days. Erica's friend is currently in the process of applying to the Peace Corps and has her interview when she gets back. I hope she got to see everything the Peace Corps has to offer during her two week trip here. We're keeping our fingers crossed that she gets chosen to come here. It's a longshot, but it is a possibility.